Fort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, Texas
Another one of our off the beaten path places to visit was Fort Davis, Texas. We spent a couple of hours there on our way to a tour of McDonald Observatory, which is about 30 minutes “up the hill.”
Fort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, Texas
Fort Davis is one of the best surviving examples of an Indian Wars’ frontier military post in the Southwest. From 1854 to 1891, Fort Davis was strategically located to protect emigrants, mail coaches, and freight wagons on the Trans-Pecos portion of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and on the Chihuahua Trail.
Fort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, Texas
Many of the buildings have been restored to close to their original condition, and for others only the foundations remain. We’ve enjoyed visiting these different forts, understanding the role they played in American history and in the expansion and settlement of the west.
Fort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, TexasFort Davis National Historic Site in Fort Davis, Texas
When people ask us what the highlight of our recent trip was, it is easy to respond that it was the Grand Canyon. But Big Bend National Park was probably the most unexpected. It is a beautiful park with rugged mountains, deep valleys and a wide variety of plant and animal life.
Big Bend National Park in TexasBig Bend National Park in TexasBig Bend National Park in Texas
Other than the scenery, we were not prepared for how dry it was there. It’s a desert climate, and we knew that. And while it was not hot – upper 80s to low 90s during our day there – the dew point was in the teens, and you could practically feel the moisture being sucked out of our bodies. We had plenty of food and water with us, and we never strayed too far from the car. But by the end of the day we were thirsty and exhausted. It just wore us out!
Big Bend National Park in TexasBig Bend National Park in TexasViews from the Sotol Vista Overlook at Big Bend National Park in TexasViews along the trail to Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff at Big Bend National Park in TexasViews along the trail to Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff at Big Bend National Park in Texas
The Rio Grande River runs along the southern border of the park, and it was interesting to look across and realize that it was another country – Mexico – on the other side. Signs warned against crossing the border illegally, but that didn’t stop people from wading across to the other side for a photo. The Rio Grande, after all, isn’t all that Grande. At least for most of the year!
Big Bend National Park in TexasThe Rio Grande River near Santa Elena Canyon, Big Bend National Park in TexasThe Rio Grande River near Santa Elena Canyon, Big Bend National Park in TexasThe Rio Grande River near Santa Elena Canyon, Big Bend National Park in Texas
Big Bend is an example of a park where you really need multiple days to truly experience it. And to do that ideally means staying in the park, either by camping or staying in one of the many privately operated lodges in and near the park. We stayed in Alpine, TX which is about 1.5 hours away. That was not a big deal since we only visited one day. But if you wanted to see more, or photograph sunrise or sunset, it would be worthwhile to be closer. On a return trip we may decide to do just that. Although we probably wouldn’t consider camping. That just isn’t our thing. 😉
Big Bend National Park in TexasBig Bend National Park in TexasViews of Goat Mountain at Big Bend National Park in TexasBig Bend National Park in TexasBig Bend National Park in TexasBig Bend National Park in Texas
Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, Texas
Probably because I started to become “world aware” in the mid to late 60s I had always associated Texas with Lyndon Johnson and The Alamo. I remember hearing references to the “Texas White House” on the news and it conjured up images of a place far away and quite foreign from western Pennsylvania.
Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, TexasLyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, TexasLyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, TexasLyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, TexasLyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, Texas
We didn’t get to The Alamo this trip, but we did visit the LBJ Ranch, which is a National Historical Park, operated by the National Park Service. None of the buildings were open, and we got there pretty late in the day, but we did have a chance to drive the loop road, stop at the house and view some of the exhibits, including a former aircraft nicknamed “Air Force One Half” because of its small size. It was used to shuttle Johnson and company between the LBJ Ranch airport and Randolph Air Force Base in San Antonio.
“Air Force One Half” Lockheed Jetstar VC-140 used as a shuttle to the LBJ Ranch airport from Randolph Air Force Base in San Antonio. Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, TexasRunway at Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, Texas“Air Force One Half” Lockheed Jetstar VC-140 used as a shuttle to the LBJ Ranch airport from Randolph Air Force Base in San Antonio. Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, Texas
Visiting the ranch gave us a little taste of US history, and made real something I had only heard about and had seen only on television.
In 1978 a couple of Waco, Texas locals were searching for arrowheads and came across a large bone. They took the bone to a scientist at Baylor University, who identified it as a mammoth bone. A Baylor undergraduate started an archeological exploration of the site in 1979, uncovering 5 mammoths over a 2.5 year period. In the following years, another 16 mammoths were discovered.
Waco Mammoth National Monument in Waco, TexasWaco Mammoth National Monument in Waco, TexasWaco Mammoth National Monument in Waco, TexasWaco Mammoth National Monument in Waco, Texas
The area is managed by the National Park Service in cooperation with the City of Waco and Baylor University, and became a National Monument in 2015 under President Obama.
Waco Mammoth National Monument in Waco, TexasWaco Mammoth National Monument in Waco, TexasWaco Mammoth National Monument in Waco, TexasWaco Mammoth National Monument in Waco, Texas
The site is much smaller and much less dramatic than Dinosaur National Monument in Utah that we visited last fall, but interesting nevertheless in that it is one of only a few places where prehistoric remains in situ can be easily viewed by the public. A building erected over the site provides viewing access while providing access to students and scientists for further study of the area.
Waco Mammoth National Monument in Waco, TexasWaco Mammoth National Monument in Waco, Texas
The place was also practically deserted on the day of our visit, making it even more attractive to us! 😉
When Kathy & I travel we don’t come home with a lot of “stuff.” A few things for the kids sometimes, or a keepsake for the bookshelf at home. But one thing we do like to do is bring home liquid souvenirs. We enjoy stopping at distilleries or wineries, sampling their products and bringing some home. It’s another way to extend the vacation, an ounce or two at a time! 😉
Balcones Distillery in Waco, Texas
On our recent trip through Texas, I had identified two distilleries I wanted to visit: Balcones Distilling in Waco, and Garrison Brothers, in Hye (near Fredericksburg). I had hoped to pick up some Texas tequila, but these two distilleries only make brown liquor – whisky and rum at Balcones, and whisky (but very good whisky) at Garrison Brothers. The tequila distilleries appear to be further south than we went, more like Austin and San Antonio. Perhaps another time.
Balcones Distillery in Waco, TexasBalcones Distillery in Waco, Texas
Balcones makes a number of different bourbons and rye whiskys, including one whisky made from blue corn. It has a very interesting flavor, very sweet with hints of corn tortilla (my taste, anyway), fresh bread and brown sugar. We brought home a bottle of that along with a bottle each of their cask strength rye, their Texas single malt pot still whisky and their cask strength rum. Those big boys will make good old fashioneds and Manhattans once the weather cools back down.
Balcones Distillery in Waco, TexasGarrison Brothers Distillery in Hye, Texas
At Garrison Brothers, they make bourbon. And only bourbon. Several different kinds, something for everyone who likes bourbon. We brought home a bottle each of their Small Batch and their Single Barrel. A little on the pricey side, these will occupy the “occasional shelf” in our cabinet!
Garrison Brothers Distillery in Hye, TexasGarrison Brothers Distillery in Hye, TexasGarrison Brothers Distillery in Hye, TexasGarrison Brothers Distillery in Hye, Texas
Every distillery has its own story, and we always enjoy hearing them. It’s fun talking and listening to people who are passionate about their craft, whether it is in Kentucky, Texas or Barbados. We’ll be ready for some more the next time we head out!
Garrison Brothers Distillery in Hye, TexasGarrison Brothers Distillery in Hye, Texas
The Blue Whale of Catoosa, a Route 66 roadside attraction in Catoosa, Oklahoma
A required stop for us along Route 66 near Tulsa was The Blue Whale of Catoosa. It is kitsch at its best with an interesting history. It was a good place to stop and have an on-the-go breakfast and to take a few photos.
This is probably the last “postcard” I’ll post, but I have lots more photos to share over the coming days and weeks.
Not the highest pass we went over, but one of the most scenic.
I thought I would post some statistics and random comments on our recent Southwest road trip. I want to do a map but Google Maps limits the number of waypoints I can do at one time, and Location History doesn’t let me choose a date range and we went over a month end. I could do a series of maps, but then it would be a (another) project in Photoshop to layer and stitch them all together. Later, perhaps…no more projects right now! 😉
Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, Texas
Distance: 6,355 miles in 23 days. While that averages to “only” 276 miles per day, several were and felt much longer due to days where we drove less. Our Northwest trip last fall was 8,000 miles, but somehow didn’t seem as long. Go figure – too much time on Interstates this time, maybe?
Photographs: 3,473 for me, 708 for Kathy plus a few on my phone. Kathy keeps my point & shoot handy for out-the-window burst-mode shots of “Welcome To X” signs and other interesting scenery. Plus surreptitious photos of me. 🙂 She got photos out the window as we cruised The Strip in Las Vegas which I am anxious to see. Might make an interesting slide show!
Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park near Johnson City, Texas
Weather: The only drops of rain we saw were in Arizona, of all places, and on our last day through Tennessee. Our friends in Arizona are experiencing beautiful blooms in their backyard garden from an unusually rainy period.
Travel: We made our reservations further in advance this time than we have done on our last few road trips. As our dates began to gel, we started finding “no availability” in a few motels where we wanted to stay, so we decided to hedge our bets a bit and go ahead with booking. We weren’t sorry.
Anyone who feels like or tells you it’s too soon to travel is watching too much TV. People are out in force and it shows in a lot of places. We didn’t go anywhere with excessive crowds. The Grand Canyon was probably the most peopled, but the shuttle buses are running at reduced capacity and, because we were there on a Monday, things were a little quieter than normal. Funniest paradox was that there is no social distancing happening in the gift shops! 🙂
Rest area along I-10 in west TexasGuadalupe Mountains National Park in Texas
Services: Pretty much everything is open. Some fast food restaurants in some locations, which we often rely on for potty stops, are drive thru only. So we started relying on larger convenience stores (love Love’s truck stops!) and gas stations.
The biggest frustration for us was the motel chains that still advertise (and charge for) a full hot breakfast but then hand you a paper sack with a granola bar, apple and bottle of water. Have a nice day! They’ve also stopped providing daily housekeeping, which isn’t a big deal for us but is for some people. When restaurants are open everywhere, how much longer are hotels going to use “Covid” as an excuse for reduced service?
Gas was expensive but available everywhere, although I’m glad we got home when we did. Our last fill-up was in Tennessee on Monday, and I have about a half tank left. Hopefully this latest mess will be resolved soon so I can refill!
This guy had an interesting setup. Popup tent on top, storage and kitchen on the bottom.
People: People were generally friendly everywhere, but I think the friendliest ones might have been in Arkansas. We stopped at a visitor center there, and a really nice lady started handing me samples of Made-In-Arkansas products, and before I knew it I had a bag full of fig jam, brown mustard, Little Debbies (Arkansas – who knew?), maps and brochures.
Someone is going to ask so I’ll say it here. Most chain restaurants and motels still ask people to wear masks, and for the most part people do. Independent places, especially in Texas and Oklahoma – very few masks. We went with the flow, and if they asked we complied, and if they didn’t we went without. No big deal, and no more commentary.
Volunteers in the National Parks are treasures. Nice people doing what they love for free (or sometimes a free campsite).
Big Bend National Park in TexasSaguaro National Park near Tucson, ArizonaSunset Crater Volcano National Monument in Arizona
We had several occasions where people asked us to take their picture, which I did in exchange for them taking ours. Worked out great and I never worried about someone taking my camera. Except for the guy in Las Vegas, who I handed Kathy’s camera. 😉
Annoyances: Oklahoma. That state loves toll roads, and they require exact change but don’t tell you how much. Who carries change these days? What we found out later was that if you keep track of how much you owe and send them a check (check?) before they send you a violation notice, you are in the clear. But who has time to find that out while scrounging for change? Yikes, what a mess.
Big Bend National Park in TexasFormer bank building in Magdalena, New MexicoPietown, New MexicoOld building near the train station in Holbrook Arizona
Traffic: Aye yey yey…trucks and RVs. By necessity of distance and time we drove more miles on Interstate highways than we typically do. More and more trucks hauling more and more stuff. Some of it important like food, but much of it just more stuff that I fear is destined for all of the self-storage places we see everywhere. And RVs galore. Many of them stuffed to the gills with overburdened trucks that can’t hold the speed limit, Greyhound-sized behemoths towing SUVs full of the crap that won’t fit inside, golf carts, 4-wheelers, motorcycles, you name it. Needless to say, we didn’t see anything to convince us to take up the RV lifestyle. We like our little Subie just fine, thank you!
Railing along the walkway on the Mike O’Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge, Hoover Dam
I’ve gone on way too long, but will write more about individual stops as I go through the photos. Needless to say it was a fantastic trip, and we look forward to hopefully crossing off the New England states this fall, then on to Hawaii! 🙂
The “Cadillac Ranch” near Amarillo, Texas on Historic Route 66
On our way back through Texas we made this required pilgrimage to the Cadillac Ranch, on Historic Route 66 near Amarillo. We didn’t paint, although there were plenty of people who were painting (I got lucky that they all happened to be hidden in this shot). We had to be careful and stay upwind of the overspray!
The Midpoint Cafe, halfway point on Route 66, near Adrian, Texas
We’re home now, but I’m a few days behind in processing photos.
We stopped for breakfast at the Midpoint Cafe in Adrian, Texas. It is purported to be the halfway point between Chicago and L.A., and who am I to argue? Great breakfast and interesting memorabilia make it a worthwhile stop.
The Motel Safari on Historic Route 66 in Tucumcari, New Mexico
Kathy & I spent a night at this motel on the “strip” in Tucumcari, New Mexico. A town with a long history as one of the highlights of Route 66, Tucumcari is struggling a bit these days, although a few of the classic hotels appear to be doing a remarkable job of hanging on. The Motel Safari is one example of those classic hotels. I’ll have more to say regarding our Route 66 experience, but suffice it to say that we would not hesitate to return to this motel.
