Tag Archives: Portugal

Endearing Madeira

Vineyards and mountain scenery outside Funchal. Island of Madeira, Portugal

The final stop – actually the only stop as it turned out – on our voyage from Barcelona back to Florida was a stop at the island of Madeira. I had heard of Madeira previously as the home for Madeira wine, a form of fortified wine similar to, but slightly different from, Port wine from Portugal. Madeira is actually a territory of Portugal, although the wine is a bit different, primarily in the type of alcohol used to fortify it.

Vineyards and mountain scenery outside Funchal. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Vineyards and mountain scenery outside Funchal. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Vineyards and mountain scenery outside Funchal. Island of Madeira, Portugal

The first thing that struck me about the island was how non-touristy it is. While there is a very nice port area for cruise ships, our tour of the island underscored that this is an island where people live and work, and while they appreciate the tourism industry and probably don’t mind a little more, things are pretty nice the way they are.

Barbusano Winery. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Barbusano Winery. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Barbusano Winery. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Barbusano Winery. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Barbusano Winery. Island of Madeira, Portugal

Upon leaving the main city of Funchal, we quickly entered the mountainous area that makes up the majority of the island. Grapes are grown literally everywhere. I’m not sure who they belong to or where they ultimately end up, but it is quite clear that wine is a very important crop on Madeira.

Remains of a Roman road in the town of Sao Vicente. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Town of Sao Vicente on the Island of Madeira, Portugal
Oceanfront near the town of Seixal. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Views from the Miradouro da Ribiera da Laje observation area. Near the town of Seixal on the island of Madeira, Portugal
View of the oceanfront near the town of Seixal. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Agua d’Alto Waterfall. Near the town of Seixal on the island of Madeira, Portugal

We booked a tour through Tours By Locals with a guide named Valdemar. He  was very knowledgeable about the island and introduced us to many of the unique experiences to Madeira, including stops at a “regular” winery and a Madeira winery. We also stopped at a roadside restaurant for an authentic Madeiran meal, consisting of locally caught and freshly grilled fish. Afterward we made a stop at a local ‘Taberna’ for a taste of Poncha, a traditional local liquor made from rum and tropical fruits.

Taberna da Poncha. Island of Madeira, Portugal. Poncha is a traditional Madeiran drink.

We’re getting ready to head out again, so this will wrap up the “official” posts from our Portugal and Spain adventure. As a reminder, photos can be found on my Adobe Portfolio page from our entire trip.

Henriques & Henriques Madeira Wine winery. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Henriques & Henriques Madeira Wine winery. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Henriques & Henriques Madeira Wine winery. Island of Madeira, Portugal
Henriques & Henriques Madeira Wine winery. Island of Madeira, Portugal

I have to say, that of all the places we visited on our trip, the island of Madeira seemed like the kind of place where I could imagine being born there and living a simple life. I would have a hard time living there now, but there is a lot to like about the lifestyle, scenery and overall pace of living that appeals to me.

Decisions, Decisions

Rua Direita (Main Street) in Obidos, Portugal

When we started planning our time in Portugal & Spain, we first had to decide where we wanted to go. Since we would be getting off the ship in Lisbon and getting back on the ship in Barcelona, those two cities were no-brainers. We knew we wanted to visit Porto, since that is the home of Port wine and also an important place in the history of Portugal.

Town Gate and Our Lady of Piety Oratory, dating to around 1376. Obidos, Portugal

We ultimately decided to visit Porto and Lisbon in Portugal, then Cordoba, Valencia and Barcelona in Spain. More time in fewer cities would allow us time to explore each place, with plenty of flexibility for discovering things not typically on the tourist checklists. It would work out to be a pretty good strategy.

Remains of the Usseira Aquaduct, dating to 1573. Obidos, Portugal
Obidos, Portugal
Obidos, Portugal

We chose where we wanted to go before we decided out how to get there. We initially figured on using trains to get from city to city. Trains from Porto into Spain generally go through Madrid, and we had decided to avoid Madrid for this trip since we were already planning to visit Barcelona. Yes, there are many interesting places we would miss, but we knew that we were going to miss a lot no matter where we went. Trains from Lisbon tend to stay along the southern coast of Spain, which is the general area we decided to visit. It seemed to make sense to go directly to Porto from Lisbon first, then return to Lisbon before working our way on to Spain.

Church of Saint Mary. Obidos, Portugal
Book store in a former church. Obidos, Portugal

As it turned out, we used private cars to take us from city to city. It is quite a bit more expensive than taking trains or buses, but it saved us the hassle of schlepping suitcases and dealing with train and bus schedules and unfamiliar stations. It also gave us the advantage of a driver with local knowledge and being able to stop in interesting places along the way.

On our ride from Lisbon to Porto, we stopped in the towns of Obidos (OH-bee-dose) and Nazare (NAZ-a-ray). We had a little time to explore each place, take a few photos, do a little shopping and grab a bite to eat.

View from the Miradouro do Suberco (viewpoint) in Nazare, Portugal
Nazare, Portugal

In Obidos we explored the town, including the remains of an ancient Roman aqueduct, the city gate dating to the 1300s and an old church, among other sights. We were able to pick up a bottle of Ginja, a sweet & sour liqueur made from cherries. It is typically served in a small chocolate cup, but we just bought a bottle and a couple of souvenir glasses to take along.

Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazareth Church in Nazare, Portugal
Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazareth Church in Nazare, Portugal
Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazareth Church in Nazare, Portugal

Nazare is known as a beach town, and in winter can have huge waves which attract surfers from around the world. The sea was calm during our visit, so we wandered the town and visited Our Lady of Nazareth Church before heading on to Porto.

Our ride from Lisbon to Porto with Cesar in his Jaguar.

The Portuguese Center of Photography

Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal

While we were in Porto, Kathy & I couldn’t pass up a chance to visit the Portuguese Center of Photography. The Center is located in a former prison and court complex that dates to the late 1700s. After 200 years of use, the building fell into disrepair but was ultimately restored in a project begun in 2000, repurposing the structure as an exhibition hall. So not only are the contents interesting, but the building itself is photographically appealing.

Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal

At the time of our visit, the exhibitions included a display of student work from School of Media Arts and Design of the Polytechnic of Porto, a collection of photographic equipment from Antonio Pedro Vicente (link to the inventory) and an exhibit of work by British filmmaker Humphry Trevelyan from the 1975 Carnation Revolution.

Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal

Also around the museum were exhibits documenting the building’s role as a prison and court, including the early use of photography in documenting prisoners. Early “mug shots” of sorts, stripping the prisoners of identifiable signs, forcing them to stare at the camera with a frightened or defying look in order to suggest guilt.

Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal

It was a fascinating place to visit and to photograph, and a highlight of our time in Porto.

Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal
Portuguese Centre of Photography in Porto, Portugal

Fado In Chiado

Fado In Chiado. Fado show in Lisbon, Portugal

Fado is a traditional genre of Portuguese music known for its expressive and melancholic character, often reflecting themes of longing and the hardships of everyday life. It originated in the early 19th century in Lisbon and is typically performed by a solo singer accompanied by guitars.

We experienced a Fado show at a venue in Lisbon called Fado In Chiado, so named because it is located in the Chiado neighborhood.

Fado In Chiado. Fado show in Lisbon, Portugal
Fado In Chiado. Fado show in Lisbon, Portugal

In my review I wrote: “I’m no expert on Fado, but our experience at Fado In Chiado was excellent. The venue is very intimate and provides good viewing and the acoustics ensure good listening. There was just enough English narration that we were able to follow along with the stories. It was recommended to us by friends and I would certainly recommend it to anyone looking to experience Fado.”

Fado In Chiado. Fado show in Lisbon, Portugal

In Color

Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazareth Church in Nazare, Portugal

We’re home and in the process of catching up on home stuff. I’m working on picking and processing my 6600+ photos, so while I do that I’ll just randomly post ones I find interesting. Eventually I will have them in a more cohesive order.

These are two very similar photos from two churches in two different places, but I thought they would make a nice pairing.

Colorful light through stained glass windows. The Mosque-Cathedral Monumental Site of Cordoba, Spain

Postcard From Lisbon, Portugal

Street car along R. de São Pedro de Alcântara in Lisbon, Portugal

We’ve been in Lisbon for a few days, and in fact will be moving on to Spain tomorrow. I made this photograph of a street car along R. de São Pedro de Alcântara near the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara park and viewpoint. Streetcars, trolleys and funiculars are popular with tourists and locals alike, and they attract budding photographers of all skill (and situational awareness!) levels.

Portugal has been wonderful! We’re looking forward to Spain, but have really enjoyed our time here.

A Magical Morning

View upriver from the Ponte Luis I Bridge in Porto, Portugal

I was fortunate that the one morning I chose to wake early and get out and make photographs in Porto was the right one. I got a lot of nice shots, but this is one of my favorites so far. Interestingly, it was one of my last of the morning.

I was out well before the sunrise but in time to watch the color develop over the skyline. As the morning progressed, I noticed a fog bank forming over the river east of town and up river. I walked up to the Ponte Luis Bridge and made this photo just as a Viking river cruise ship passed. It was pretty good timing.

There are six bridges over the Douro connecting Porto with Gaia, so almost any photograph of the river is going to include one of them. The bridge in this photo is the modern Ponte da Arrábida Bridge, and it adds a nice backdrop combined with the ship and the buildings along the river bank.

Postcard From Porto, Portugal

Luís I Bridge over the Douro River in Porto, Portugal

We wanted to visit Porto first and foremost because it is world renowned as the home of Port wine. The south side of the Douro river, and the town of Gaia, is where all of the Port wineries are located. And of course every restaurant in town serves a nice selection of local wines.

I took this photo of the Luís I Bridge over the Douro on the night of our arrival. The bridge was designed by Teófilo Seyrig, who was a partner of some guy named Eiffel who designed something famous in Paris. 😉 Many sources credit Eiffel for the design, but locally everyone is quick to point out the real story!

Postcard From Nazare, Portugal

Nazare, Portugal

Our second stop en route to Porto was Nazare (NAZ a ray). Because we had extra time in Obidos, Nazare was a quick stop to see the views and visit the cathedral. I only took a few photos there, but this view was pretty nice.

Summer time is a very busy time with vacationers visiting the beaches. Later in the winter, Nazare will host some of the largest waves in the world, and surfers will come from all over to try their luck. The town was pretty quiet on this early winter day.

Postcard From Obidos, Portugal

Obidos, Portugal

We disembarked our cruise ship in Lisbon, Portugal this past Wednesday and had arranged transportation to Porto with stops in Obidos and Nazare along the way. Obidos (OH bee dose) is a cute little place with a main street full of shops, the requisite churches, a fort and – of course – cobblestones. It even has the remains of an ancient Roman aqueduct.

Obidos is also known for producing ‘Ginja de Obidos,’ a sweet and sour cherry liquor that is served in little chocolate cups about the size of a shot glass. And of course we bought a bottle as a souvenir! 😉